Bolivia kicked my butt. First she pummeled me to death, then she beat me to a pulp, and finally, she chewed me up and spit me out. But first, the rest of the story.
It took 18 days to go a pathetic 435 miles from Oruro to the Southwest corner of Bolivia. Those hard won miles were over gravel, sand, rocks and broken pavement. They were ridden going up and down from 3600 meters to 5000 meters on any given day (Mt. Rainier is 4,392 meters to give it some perspective). Often there was gale force headwinds or mighty crosswinds mocking our efforts, in addition to high altitude, horrendous roads, and the weight of our fully loaded bikes. One day I could only walk my bike 13 miles up a pass before calling it quits five hours later and camping out in the freezing cold just off the side of the road. All I could think about was how similar my efforts were to Robert DeNiro’s in “The Mission” where he pulled a metal knight’s suit along behind him up the ragging Iguazú Falls for penance (if you haven’t seen it, rent it!).
For the last eight days we had to carry enough food for the entire trip and water for two days at a time. This added weight plus the already taxing environmental conditions made for slow going, lots of pushing, and time to think about my own “penance.”
I had to get very creative on where to stay in order to block out at least some of the strong wind and teeth-chattering cold that threatened to blast us every night. We stayed in an old abandoned school house, a gym, a church courtyard, a military compound and several “Refugios” along the way. The refugios are where the folks on jeep tours would stay which meant two things: other folks from around the world to chat with and, if we were lucky, scoring some leftover pancakes, cereal, hot water, or even coffee. The bikers were sort of second-rate citizens at these refugios so we had to be stealthy and swoop down like vultures as soon as the jeeps took off. A few unforeseen pancakes could tip the scales on energy and just plain old anticipation for the mid-morning or afternoon break.
Alas, after 18 days off the grid (which now means without internet), we crossed the last Bolivian outpost at Laguna Verde and entered the promised land of Chile. Here toilet paper is freely distributed, showers run warm and the streets are paved. Who knew that the simplest pleasures of life could bring such joy.
How are you the same person that hid under the dining room table when the rose bush scratched the window? 😂 You are my hero, Denise! Love you. Na
I have become one with the rose bush – grasshopper! Really, no hero here; just ignorance is bliss like always! Much love.
I’m glad you made it through Bolivia, it sounds brutal. Will you be biking at lower elevation now? The salt flats look really cool. You are a strong woman!
Riding out of the Bolivia altiplano down to the Chilean desert we had a 42k downhill descent losing over 2,000 meters of altitude in less than an hour. It was crazy and hard on the breaks. Now, it looks like to get out of the desert we have to go back up over 2,000m OR ride over the same grueling washboard for at least three days again carrring water and food for the journey. It’s kind of like “Sophie’s Choice.”
Wow! What an amazing adventure you are having! You are a fantastically strong and determined character to face all these physical and mental challenges with such a good humor. Thank you for sharing your journey with us lesser mortals who can only kneel in your presence! Seriously – I am inspired and awed by you. Talk about living life to the full. Much love from your fan club at my house! xxx
Donna what you are doing raising two wonderful children takes far more superpowers than I will ever have. But, I’m glad you are enjoying following me on the lawless roads of Latin America! Stay tuned for more adventure ahead!
Ya, I still say you are one cool lady. Wishing you warmer weather and a tail wind in Chile. I love Chilean red wines. Have a bottle or two for me. 😉
Warmer weather indeed! Heading back over a big pass soon to get out of Chile and into Argentina. That tailwind will be mighty welcomed at about 4,000 meters. I’ll have to check out the red wine soon!
Wow! Can’t wait to see the stronger Denise that you are becoming!
Lots of hugs to you!!!
Thanks Jaime. Yes, working on channeling both my mental and physical strength, but at the moment I’m channeling my inner sloth.
You go girl. Is there any girl as intrepid as you? You awe me!
Thanks Janet! As they say, “Ignorance is Bliss.”
So glad you and Dana are still on two wheels! Super (disturbing) picture of the salt flats. Looking forward to meeting Dana in Santiago, and hoping to meet you there as will. Peace, and safe travels.
Yep, the ride hasn’t defeated us (yet)! When Dana branches of to meet you in Santiago, I will continue on in Argentina (if the plan doesn’t change!). One step at a time!
Glad you made it, I have been thinking of you. How did you like the salt flats, aren’t they the coolest thing you have ever seen? Did you see any pink flamingos in the mountain lakes? Southern Bolivia is so cool. linda
Southern Bolivia is very cool, but is very challenging to ride over. By the time Igot to the lakes with the flamingos I could barely lift my head to look!
You are a strong courageous woman!! Thanks for sharing these much awaited stories. Cuidate
Thanks for reading them! Some days are easier than others to be strong, as is true for all of life!
Happy for you!!! GO AHEAD!!! ..glad you are in Chile
Jorge, so happy to hear from you! Leaving Chile soon but will re-enter again around Santiago . So fun to be here!
Dear teacher: lam so sorry not sent letter to you. Because my father was sick.so Im bucy. Now. I went Seattle. I hope you all best. WEI ________________________________
Wei, so good to hear from you! I hope your father is better. Glad you are back in Seattle. Please say hi to everyone for me! Thanks for your message. Have a great year and learn lots of English!!